Anybody done power door locks?

[Shaky_Jake]

...On one of our trucks? I have new latches, so hopefully they'll not be too stiff to work, and a pair of Autoloc's 11lb lock actuators. Just looking for ideas on how to mount the suckers successfully on my '68. Anyone?

[trucknut]

I installed them on my '72. Couldn't bare the fact I would be aiming a sharp object (key) at my door everytime I wanted to go somewhere lol.

I installed the keyless entry system that bestbuy sells. Its a Black Widow. I also had to buy the actuators 2 @ 19.95 ea. total of 150.00 and about 2 hrs worth of work. The actuators I bought came with an assortment of rods and clasps so you could just mount the actuator to the inside of the door (under the door panel) then position the correct rod to make it reach. Very easy and a VERY much needed addition to anyones truck!!!!

[1967k10]

Shaky,

I got them on my 67, put them on about 5 years ago. I am going to look into getting some actuators with a little more Umph... mine done operate 100%. It has been long enough that I don't remember what they are rated at and I certainly don't have the paper work to look.

I might try cleaning everything REALLY good and giving it a lube job first. I'd encourage you to do the same thing while you are in there.

[XXL]

If you're using them to lock and unlock, best bet is to mount the motor vertically along the trailing edge of the door and hit the factory lock rod as it heads up through the hole in the top edge of the door. You can just piggyback the two rods together with one of the supplied clamps. And... as for getting the 11# motors, it's good that you've got new latches!

[Shaky_Jake]

Well, I finally got off my duff and changed out the passenger window mechanism, so now it's power too. The truck's been sitting since the wreck while I'm fabricating some goodies - power bed cover opener, new front hood hinges, the corvette mirrors... I've been starting it every few days, but I missed a cycle and the battery was a bit low and I foolishly tried to make a minor timing change before starting it. While I let the battery charge up, I did the window and decided to jump onto the locks too. Did 'em just like XXL suggested, straight down from the manual lock rod and parallel to them. I do have new door latches, and after a bit of fiddling with the rods - ok, I cheated and popped a 3/8" hole where the little coupler is - got them working smooth as silk. They're pretty noisy, but that's no biggie. Got the timing sorted out after I finally got it started, but I think I'm waaayyy advanced again - this beast likes the timing hot, but then it's a delicate act to keep from overheating... Oh well, not the greatest of my problems right now.

Thanks all for the tips!

[1967k10]

Get any pictures of the process?

[Shaky_Jake]

Sorry, I don't have quite enough brainpower going on here to remember to photograph stuff as I go along. :rolleyes: I can get pictures of the whole works assembled - possibly tomorrow night. I still have new clips to install for the lock cylinders, and the passenger lock is acting a bit funky, so I'll pull it out and snap some pics of how it all went together for me.

[krue]

Pics would be nice.

[spaz]

Here's a picture of how/where the rod from the power lock solenoid comes up from it's mounting area, to the door lock rod. The plastic piece is what holds them together.
The two Screwheaded Machine screws at the bottom that you see, is what holds the solenoid in place.

I have had this unit in for at least 10 years, The only trouble I have ever had was when The wires wore through, where they exited the jamb, and entered the door. I will probably go with the door to door jamb switch, that makes contact when the door is shut only.

http://www.myoldtruck.com/Gallery/data/500/240power_lock_hook_up_cropped-med.jpg

[trucknut]

Ron, I've found that using a peice of vacuum hose as a passthrough works extremely well. I went ahead and ran 4 wires through the tube just incase I needed 2 more wires for something later down the road.

[Shaky_Jake]

I'll admit it - I forgot to take the pictures the other night. I got side-tracked helping a buddy with a fabrication project. The pics that were posted are pretty much the same thing I would have done. The only real difference, is I have a little metal clamp that came with my lock kit that uses set screws to connect to the lock rod to the door lock actuator. I ended up drilling a 3/8" hole just above the stock opening shown in that picture to be able to access the set screws.

I'm planning on using some -8 braided stainless line with a pair of grommets to run my wiring in. Overkill? Yep, but that's pretty much the theme of the whole truck. :D I also have power window and power mirror wiring to run through it, so the -8 (1/2") may be a little tight.

[spaz]

Originally posted by Piston
Ron, I've found that using a peice of vacuum hose as a passthrough works extremely well. I went ahead and ran 4 wires through the tube just incase I needed 2 more wires for something later down the road.

That's a good idea, The other option, I went to the local junk yard, and searched some of the newer cars/trucks, They have rubber tubes that secure on both ends within the metal. They are about 1" around. The only drawback, You'll have to remove the door to drill out this large of a hole. ( that's why mine's not done, And through the move, i'm not sure I know where they are)
The other things I mentioned Is a block that bolts to the outside of the door, and outside of the door jamb, they have little metal spring loaded "Tits" that stick out and contact each other when the door is shut to complete the circuit. I forgot who makes it, but Sumitt and Jegs carries them, and they're not that expensive.