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Finally got all the lights to work on my instrument cluster, I had to clean every single contact and pry the tabs up on the bulb holders to get the stupid things to work!:mad:
But know that it all works it sure looks good!:D
trucknut
06-23-2003, 11:48 PM
30 years of corrosion working against you there. Glad everything turned out good. If you ever get something like that again, clean the contacs with emery cloth then coat them with dielectric Gel.
Dielectric Gel...
Good idea! I had used heat sink cream on a few things... probably because it was already in a drawer, in the garage. It seems to be working, but it's only been about 6 months. I'll bet the right product would be better <g>.
My biggest problem is with elec window switches. I've tried cleaning, coating (with numberous things), but it only takes about a month before they get some kind of arcing carbon in them and quit again. I guess the culprit here is high load and a big arc.
If any of you have a trick for this, please let me know.
Thanks,
Mark
trucknut
06-24-2003, 11:18 AM
How old are your motors? They could be drawing too many amps which is causing the arc.
Are you able to install any switch you want?
Hi Piston,
I put new motors and switches in last summer as a mod kit from manual cranks. I would believe these are matched and compatible for amps and loads. The windows move easily, cause I put all new weather seals and links arms in at the same time.
After calling and talking to them, the vendor even gave me new switches twice, which I installed.
They didn't want the old switches back, so I pulled them apart, found the carbon, cleaned them up. I've coated them with any numbers of things... WD40, heat sink compound, clear laquer, wheel grease, etc. They work for about a month, then quit again no matter what the weather is.
These switches are the up/down, autocentering, toggles. They are chrome, with square cover plates. Passenger is single switch, driver is double (for both windows). I'm not sure how to further describe them other than they look like they are out of the 70's era.
I haven't tried the electrolic cream yet, but I will. Honestly, I wonder if the heat sink cream isn't the same thing.
At a few places on the web, other people have had the same problem with a number of different style switches. Seems like after 30+ years we could design a better mouse trap <g>.
Mark
Forgot the last part....
Yep I could plug in any switch in there. I'd prefer something that looks like it belongs in a 70 C10, but I'd change design a little if it would keep working. Any ideas?
Mark
trucknut
06-24-2003, 02:33 PM
Do you have a picture or link to your type of switch? I'm sure some of the suppliers can tell you if there is something better than what you have.
Hi Piston,
I didn't buy the switches from Chevy Duty, but I did just find a picture of the passenger door wingow switch. The driver side looks the same except it has two toggle paddles in it.
It's a jpg format picture.
I'm guessing you have attachments turned on and allowable on your site here cause I see the prompt window for sending an attachment. If the pic doen't come though, let me know your email address and I'll send it straight to you.
Mark
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